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About the producer
Aubry’s is a seventeen hectare estate with vineyards in Jouy, Pargny and Villedommange, all Premier Cru. They used to sell a third of their grapes to a big house which I won’t name (but rhymes with “Groove Pekoe”), but happily 2001 was the last year. The brothers Aubry look like they’d be good rugby players but in fact they’re as sharp as two tacks. These are unique champagnes and given the breadth of the range, it’s hard to make shift with a few telling descriptors. They are flowery and high-flying Champagnes, rather like a cross of Chartogne and Chiquet, but not exactly similar to either. Class, depth and detail are abundant. They are graceful, even when they’re intense. As Aubrys use concentrated must instead of sugar for their dosage, the palate “reads” the sweetness differently. There’s more of a fructose texture, a clotted-cream kind of grip. I find these Champagnes alternately lovable and impressive, and occasionally both.